Excerpt from Wine Enthusiast.

Even one of the greatest beer and food proponents, Brewmaster Garret Oliver from Brooklyn Brewery in Brooklyn, New York, admits to the difficulties that cooking with beer can pose: “Actually, as much as I hate to say it, even though I generally feel that beer is the superior drink for food matching, I’d give wine the edge for most cooking,” he says. “Bitterness is a complicating factor for many recipes. Unless the dish calls for long simmering time, which breaks down bitterness much as it does wine tannins, then the beer used should be low in bitterness. In Belgium, for example, wheat beers are often used as the bases for classic dishes such as moules frites [mussels with fries] or waterzooi [a chicken stew]. Wheat beers have plenty of flavor, but relatively low bitterness, so they’re often suitable.”

One saving grace for beer in cooking, as noted by Paxton, is its ageability. “Beer ages very nicely, like good wine and Ports,” he points out. “With age, the hop bitterness drops out, allowing the beer to round out and become a whole new beast.” If you’re looking for more elevated, or at least less mainstream, beer food applications such as beer-battered fried foods and Guinness stew, here are three fine beer-based recipes that are sure to transform the way you view cooking with beer. While all of these recipes will pair exceptionally well with the beers that they are prepared with, you can always think outside the box, too: “Rethink pairings,” Paxton says. “There are many beers available that are complex, unique, long lasting and with carbonation and bitterness… a huge addition to the palate.” And you can also think simple, per Oliver’s suggestion: “My most common use for Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout is to make an ice cream float. It’s really delicious!”

By Lauren Buzzeo